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Safe Surfing: Beach Break, Reef Break, and Point Break

There is plenty of misfortune that can come the way of the surfer. And there's no doubt that the serious surfer, the guy or woman that goes out in relatively big surf, is going to have some days that make the said surfer wonder if he or she should give it up. This is speaking of near drowning, getting smashed onto reef, shark sightings, and other mishaps. Taking a few basic precautions and following a few sensible rules can go a long way towards making your surf adventure a bit safer.

When you go up against Mother Nature, you can never totally control the outcome. The ocean, for all its beauty, is vastly more powerful than the strongest of surfers. Even in relatively small surf of 2-3 feet, the power of the wave can smash you into unpleasant reef or rock causing serious injury. Bottom-line: Even when it's small, you can still get hurt. Always remember that the ocean is much bigger and stronger than you, and keep your wits about you to avoid injury.

THE BASICS

Never Surf Alone: This is the first rule. The danger is real. If you have a companion, when you get into trouble, your friend can help rescue you or get help. At least try to surf where others are surfing if you can't bring along a friend. It goes without saying that you should keep alert to trouble others are having and come to their aid should the need arise.

Don't Surf Until or Unless You Are a Strong Swimmer: Remember that a surfer becomes a swimmer once separated from his board. It’s bound to happen to you that a leash will break or an ankle strap will come undone. One can quickly succumb to fatigue if not in good physical condition or one is not a strong swimmer. Some of the tests of swimming ability are:

The ability to swim 100 yards at full strength; The ability to swim 500 yards at a controlled pace; Submerge and remain submerged for at least 30 seconds; Swim under water for at least 60 feet; Be able to tread water for at least 20 minutes.

Give the Other Surfer the Right-of-Way: Be cool! It's not going to hurt you. Your ego will survive. Remember, Duke Kahanamoku once said, "Surfers pride themselves on being good sportsmen. Don’t be a surf hog. A wave comes in and everyone wants to get on. That is how they get broken teeth and smashed eyes. Remember there is much more surf coming in. Wait for another wave. Do not be a surf hog." Surfers should take pride in being good sports. In fact it takes character to give the right-of-way to another.

Keep Control of Your Board: Loose boards cause injuries, sometimes serious. Few remember Robert Simmons, the great California surfer. However, he was killed by a loose surf board. It's not so important if you are a bodyboarder (sponge doesn't hurt much). However, countless serious injuries have resulted from loose boards in the water. Unless you are surfing a deserted beach a rare occurrence, you must have a leash. Every surfer owes it to every other surfer, and every other person in the water, to keep control of his/her board. Cutting out of a wave neatly, stalling, turning back, kicking out fast, and making a graceful pullout shoot be practiced until they are mastered and become second nature.

Speaking of loose boards, the inevitable happens no matter what precautions we take. Put a nose guard on your board. It can save you from losing your eye. There have been several accounts where surfers got hurt, but their vision was saved because they had a nose guard attached to the nose of their board.
Treat fellow surfers as you would like to be treated: What needs to be said about this? It is the millenium old Golden Rule.

Surf Only Where Your Ability Is Equal to the Waves: This is especially important for beginners. Not only are you putting yourself at risk, but everybody in the line-up has to keep their eye on you to make sure you aren't dropping-in on them, and otherwise posing a hazard to yourself and others.

Remember, Don't Surf at Night: OK, OK. But you had better be able to surf that break blind-folded in the day before you try it at night.

If You Are a Real Beginner, Surf Only Broken Waves: This will help you get up-to-speed without getting creamed in breaking waves. Take your time learning.

Do Not Paddle Out Through Area Where Surfers Are Riding: It is simple common sense not to paddle out through areas where waves are being ridden. Always maneuver around incoming surfers even if it means a longer paddling-out distance as you work your way beyond the breakers to the line-up. You are asking for trouble otherwise.

Other stuff:

Just like any athletic activity, you must be in good overall physical shape. This will keep you from becoming winded too easily and will help you to avoid minor injuries like pulled muscles, strains and sprains. Warming up on the beach before you paddle-out is becoming a common practice too and is probably a good idea.

If you see a fellow surfer in trouble, go to their aid immediately. Once you get them to shore, make sure someone is going for emergency assistance if needed. Learn CPR. You never know when you will need it.

Study and understand the water conditions for the place you want to surf. If you don't feel comfortable going out, there's a reason. You aren't ready! Don't go.

If there are life-guards at your break ask them about the break. They've seen it all and know what the conditions are like.

Understand the limitations of yourself and your equipment. Know the hazards of backwashes, riptides,
strong-running eddies, currents and whirlpools.

Again, surf with a friend, or make some friends quickly in the line-up.